Sunday, September 19, 1999

How do you say Customer Service in Greek?

Having the afternoon free, I asked the tour guide for suggestions and she recommended hanging out at Koloniki Square. It's an area of shops and cafes with narrow streets and alleys. Pigeons were everywhere, including on the tables where people were eating. I found a place indoors to eat. Quickly growing bored with Koloniki, I decided to try Mt. Lycabettus, a high point in the city where one can see Athens laid out below. Hailing a cab was a problem. Cabbies may ignore me or they may stop. If they stop they may speak English or they may drive off. If they do understand English they may or may not feel like it, and they'll drive off. Finally a cabbie acknowledged my existance and, when pressed, admitted he could feasably take me to Mt. Lycabettus. Reluctantly, he drove me over to the entrance. There's a funicular you can ride to the top for 1,000 DR. At the top is a one-room church with samples of Greek Orthodox iconography and a donation box. The main attraction was the view. The city of Athens stretched out below me in all directions, a mass of white buildings that stretched out towards the distant hills. I could see the Aegean Sea. It truly was spectacular.

Next on the list was the Athens Stadium, where the first modern Olympics was held in 1896. I rode back down the funicular and stopped three cabs before I found one willing to take me to the stadium. He wanted 8,000 DR to drive me around to see the stadium and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. I told him it only cost me 1,000 to get there and he could forget it. Finally a cab took me for only 375. The Stadium is made of marble and has 106 steps to the top (I counted; I climbed). At the far end were two-headed, Janus-style busts of Athena and Poseidon, the two deities associated with Athens.

Back to the hotel restaurant for dinner. I ordered lamb brochette and a glass of wine. The waiter wore a nametag that read WAITER. He never offered me a refill--or anything else, for that matter. When I tired of waiting for him to return so I could ask him for the bill, I laid 10,000 DR on the table. And waited some more. Greeks have no concept of customer service.

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